Hanoi
We had originally planned on taking the most direct route north towards Hanoi, with a crossing into Vietnam near Sam Neua. But there is no regular transport yet on this route, so one has to rely on catching a ride on a truck or motorbike for the final stretch on each side of the border, and their were discouraging reports of unhelpful drivers on the Vietnamese side (and we didn't manage to get any Vietnamese currency while we were in Vientiane).
The alternative was a bus that leaves Phonsavan twice a week which goes east across the border at Nong Haet and all the way to Vinh. Although, this wasn't the most direct route, it seemed an easier option logistically. The bus left at 6:30am.
I woke up and checked the time at 6:26am - I had set my alarm for 5:20pm by accident. It was Friday, and the next bus was Tuesday and this was the last day of our visas in Laos. But all was not lost - the guest-house called the bus-station and persuaded them to hold the bus and we scrambled to get going, considering ourselves lucky to jump on without buying snacks and get two seats together near the back.
Since we had missed breakfast, by the time we stopped in a town in Vietnam 4 hours later we were ready for some lunch. Unfortunately, it turns out that the entire week after the New Year (Tet) many restaurants, bakeries and shops are closed and we
weren't able to find anywhere selling anything to eat for the whole 13 hour bus ride (although some friendly Laos students behind us took pity and offered us some sticky rice and some bread).
Arriving in Vinh we managed to find a reasonable hotel and after an underwhelming dinner we went straight to bed, thinking that the mini-bus to Hanoi that we booked for the next day would be a more comfortable trip.
Unfortunately, it was not to be, and we found ourselves jammed into the back seat of a public bus with our knees practically at our chins, watching successive passengers stepping on Katie's poor backpack that was lying in the aisle. We survived the 5 hour ride to Hanoi and after nosing around the old quarter a bit we installed ourselves in a comfy hotel with a sparklingly clean bathroom and indulged ourselves with the free internet and later, a thoroughly western dinner.
The old quarter caters heavily to tourists, but retains just enough of its local business to be interesting. It's a bit of a culture shock after the tranquility of Laos though.
The streets are jammed with scooters generating a steady cacophony of honking and the bikes not on the streets are busy blocking the sidewalks. Shops and kitchens overflow out onto the sidewalk, which serves as garage, living room, porch, kitchen and garbage disposal.
Faced with the impassable sidewalk and the density of the road traffic, the path of least resistance ends up being by the gutter trying to avoid the worst of the mud, slime, oil and sewage. It's so filthy, the novelty of it is almost an attraction.
We're looking forward to spending the next few days on a boat crusing around Halong Bay.
The alternative was a bus that leaves Phonsavan twice a week which goes east across the border at Nong Haet and all the way to Vinh. Although, this wasn't the most direct route, it seemed an easier option logistically. The bus left at 6:30am.
I woke up and checked the time at 6:26am - I had set my alarm for 5:20pm by accident. It was Friday, and the next bus was Tuesday and this was the last day of our visas in Laos. But all was not lost - the guest-house called the bus-station and persuaded them to hold the bus and we scrambled to get going, considering ourselves lucky to jump on without buying snacks and get two seats together near the back.
Since we had missed breakfast, by the time we stopped in a town in Vietnam 4 hours later we were ready for some lunch. Unfortunately, it turns out that the entire week after the New Year (Tet) many restaurants, bakeries and shops are closed and we
weren't able to find anywhere selling anything to eat for the whole 13 hour bus ride (although some friendly Laos students behind us took pity and offered us some sticky rice and some bread).
Arriving in Vinh we managed to find a reasonable hotel and after an underwhelming dinner we went straight to bed, thinking that the mini-bus to Hanoi that we booked for the next day would be a more comfortable trip.
Unfortunately, it was not to be, and we found ourselves jammed into the back seat of a public bus with our knees practically at our chins, watching successive passengers stepping on Katie's poor backpack that was lying in the aisle. We survived the 5 hour ride to Hanoi and after nosing around the old quarter a bit we installed ourselves in a comfy hotel with a sparklingly clean bathroom and indulged ourselves with the free internet and later, a thoroughly western dinner.
The old quarter caters heavily to tourists, but retains just enough of its local business to be interesting. It's a bit of a culture shock after the tranquility of Laos though.
The streets are jammed with scooters generating a steady cacophony of honking and the bikes not on the streets are busy blocking the sidewalks. Shops and kitchens overflow out onto the sidewalk, which serves as garage, living room, porch, kitchen and garbage disposal.
Faced with the impassable sidewalk and the density of the road traffic, the path of least resistance ends up being by the gutter trying to avoid the worst of the mud, slime, oil and sewage. It's so filthy, the novelty of it is almost an attraction.
We're looking forward to spending the next few days on a boat crusing around Halong Bay.
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